Shirt collar construction



Feb. 23, 1965 7 ca. WEISS 3,170,166

SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed July 25, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIGS.

F|G.6. J? 41 740 4 H 4 I j INVENTOR.

4k GEORGE WEISS M+m a4 Feb. 23, 1965 G. WEISS SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 23, 1964 FIG. '7.

FIG. 9.

INVENTOR. GEORGE WE/S 3 BY are not inwide use.

United States Patent 3,170,166 ST CGLLAR CONSTRUCTHON George Weiss, 520 Magnolia Elva Long Beach,

Long Island, NE. Filed July 23, 1964, Ser. No. 384,589

. 14 Claims. (Cl. 2:132)

The present invention relates generally to a collar for a shirt or similar garment, and more particularly to a collar which is expandable lengthwise or in its longitudinal direction. The present application is a continuation-- out exception these prior art collars have been found to be wanting in other' essential attributes and consequently Certain of these prior'art collars require such substantial departure from traditional techniques of collar manufacture, and/or'the use of special or costly fabric parts, that the cost or expense of adoption is not warranted; By and large, however,'the major shortcoming is that at the expense of rendering the collar expandable, the neat appearance of'the' collar is ad-. versely affected. For example, in utilizing stretchable expansion of these fabric plies is restricted or rendered rneffective-inthe prominentcollar areas defining and adacent to the collar opening by non stretchable, interposed interlining plies incorporated in the body of the collar as inserts in these critical areas.

In an initial stage of construction of the collar, the non-stretchable interlining plies are each placed in facing relation on each of the opposite ends of the superposed stretchable fabric ply arrangement, the interlining ply at each of. these locations extending'from the end edge of the arrangement inwardly therefrom along the arrangement for only a portion of the length thereof. 'Am'argi fabric in a collar of usual construction, the: distortion produced therein during stretch or expansion of thecollar adversely changes the lay of the collar, and/or produces wrinkles, ripples, or other such surface unevenness in the prominent or readily noticeable areas of the collar. Broadly, it is an object of the present invention to provide an expandable collar overcoming one .or more of these and other prior art shortcomings. L Specifically, it is an object of the invention to provide a collar-which has the desirable feature of lengthwise stretch or expansion and which is constructed in accordance with the'known and familiar stitch-and-turn techniques of construction; which utilizes conventionally shaped and readily commercially available fabric parts; and which retains a neat and tidy appearance in the. critical, prominent areas of the collar. v A further object is to provide an improved expandable collar in which the neat and tidy appearance of the collar along theedges thereof defining the collar. opening and in the areas adjacent thereto is preserved, or in any event, not: adversely altered or modified by stretch distortions.

A still further object is to provide an improved expandable collar having a desired amount of lengthwise stretch to promote or provide comfort to the wearer, and in which this directional stretch is restricted to the medial or back may omit this part andbeattached directly to a garment,

as is typically the practice for a sp'orts shirt. In both instances, a collar according to the present invention in cludes a superposed arrangement of fabric plies extending throughout the entire body of the collar and made up into'a collar according to traditional steps of manufacture utilized for so called stitch-and-turn collars. The usual topand under fabric plies of the collar, either by'incorporation of appropriate elastorneric yarns in their construction or by other means, as is herein described, are

stretchable lengthwise'to provide the desired expansion to the collar in this direction. f However, this directional nal line of stitching through the interlining plies and stretchable fabric plies prepares the same for subsequent turning in accordance with traditional stitch-and-turn techniques of collar construction, and permanently locates each of the interlining plies in the body of the collar along and adjacent to each of the end edges of the collar which define the usual collar opening. Upon turning 'of 'the' collar, each of the non-stretchable interlining plies ex tend from a collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for a portion of length of the collar-body adjacent these edges, and restricts stretching of the stretchable fabric plies in these critical, prominent areas. of the collar to" prevent distortions due to stretch from occurring in these collar areas.

The above brief descriptiomj as well as further objects, 7 features and advantages of the present invention, will be more fully appreciated by reference'to the following detailed description of presently preferred, but nonethe less illustrative embodiments in accordance'with' the present invention, when takenin conjunction withthe accompanying drawings, wherein: i

FIGS. 1-7 relate to one' embodiment of a collarvaccording to thepresent invention having a one-piece construc-- tion adapted for attachment directly to a shirt orfsimilar garment, to wit:

FIG. 1 is a fragmentary front elevationalfview of a shirt and said collar attached directly thereto; 7 e

FIG. ,2 is a plan view, "on an enlarged scale, of the collar ofFIG. 1 at an initial stage of manufacture thereof, with the fabric plies turned at one end to expose the num: ber of such plies being used, and with areas in the body of the plies cross-hatched to illustrate a yarn construction which serves the ends of the present invention;

FIG. 3' is a partial plan view, on an enlarged scale, of

a woven fabric ply having another yarn construction, ex-

posed by cross-hatchingwhich can be used in a collar according to the present invention;

' FIG. 4 is similar to FIG. 3 and is a partial plan View,

on an enlarged scale, of still another embodiment of a fabric ply for a collar according to the present invention; v 7' FIG. 5 is similar to FIG. 2 and is a partialplan view, on an enlarged scale, of the'collar of FIG. l but at a later stage of manufacture thereof, namely, after turning and the application of decorative marginal "top stitching; FIG. 6 is 'a partial elevational'view of the collar at the stage of manufacture depicted in FIG. 2, in cross section,

taken on line 6' 6 of FIG. ZfilluStrating the areasoccupied by the fabric plies within the body of the collar;

' FIG. 7 :is similar to FIG. 5 and is a partial elevational view of the collar but at the stage of manufacture depicted in FIG. 5,.in cross section,'taken ou line 77 of FIG. 5, and showing further details of the. internal construction of the collar;

FIGS. 8-10 relate more specifically to *a further eming to the present invention, to wit: a a

FIG, 8 is a perspective View of an illustrative dress shirt having said collar and neckband secured thereto;

bodiment of a collar with an attached neckband accord FIGy-Q is aplan view-of the collar and neckbandof '7 Patented Feb: 23, 1965 V FIG. 7, with portions removed to expose the interior construction thereof; and

FIG. is an enlarged sectional view of the collar and attached collar is folded at its middle, as at the fold line 30, and provides a finished appearance to the neck opening 24 of the shirt 26 as well as defining .a collar opening 32 between the opposite end edges of the collar body 28.

As will be appreciated, the neatness of the collar is judged principally by the appearance of the collar opening edges 34 and the areas of the collar body adjacent these edges, herein designated 28a. Accordingly, in ren dering the collar 20 expandable as is hereinafter" described, expansion is restricted to the medial or less noticeable collar area, herein designated 2%. Thus,-the neat appearance once provided the collar areas 28a and the collar Opening edges 34 is not adversely affected by the stretching distortions of the expandable collar body area 2311. In the collar 20 of FIG. 1, the delineating reference lines designated A and B generally lie at the boundaries between the expanding collar body area 23b and the non-expanding collar body areas 28a, the former extending throughout the length portion of the collar 26 coextensive with the reference arrow designated C, and the latter areas starting at the reference lines A, B and extending therefrom throughout theremaining length of the collar body 23 to each of the collar opening edges 34.

Excepting for the manner in which collar 20 is rendered stretchable in the collar body area 2812 and non-stretchable in the areas 28a, collar 20 is constructed as is a conventional stitch-and-turn collar. Accordingly, at an early stage of manufacture as depicted in FIG. 2, collar Zilis comprised of a superposed arrangement of coextensive fabric plies, generally designated 36. Arrangement 36 preferably includes three fabric plies herein designated 40a, 4tlb and 400 throughout the entire length of the collar body 28. As indicated by the cross-hatching, the construction of the plies. 4ila-c include'crossing Weft and warp yarns, the former being of higher denier and running generally lengthwise or in the long dimension of the collar 20 and herein collectively designated 42,. and the latter or warp yarns generally lying widthwise of the collar 20 and herein collectively designated 44. To render the collar Zll stretch-able lengthwise or along its long dimension, the weft yarns 42 of the fabric plies Mia-c are advantageously any one of a number of inherently lengthwise stretchable yarns which are readily commercially available, and which have an elastomeric core and a covering wrap of cotton, nylon or a similar stabilizing fiber.

In the alternative, a fabric ply having the constructions illustrated in FIGS. 3, 4 and respectivelydesignatedtherein add, the may be substituted for any one or all of the fabn'c plies 4061-0. The fabric ply dild of FIG. 3 similarly is constructed of crossing weft and warp yarns 42a, 44a, but neither of these yarns is an inherently stretchable yarn as this term is generally understood. However, as shown in FIG. 3, the yarns 42a, 44a are oriented on the bias, or at a preferred angle of 45 to the long direction of the fabric ply add, so that stretch lengthwise of the ply is not opposed by either of the angled or biased yarns 52a, 44a. The fabric construction of FIG. 4 in yet another manner promotes lengthwise stretch in the fabric ply 4th.. Similarly, neither of these crossing weft and warp yarns 42b, 44b falls in tl e category of what is generally understood to be a stretchable yarn, but as clearly s'ignificantly'for the present invention, any marked or 4 shown in FIG. 4, the weft yarns 4212 are crimped continuously throughout their length and, the straightening or unfoldin" of these crimps is effective to render the fabric ply l-iie lengthwise stretchable.

From the foregoing, it will thus be appreciated that fabric may be rendered stretchable in a variety of ways. For purposes of the present invention, the particular reason or circumstance which provides stretch to a fabric, whether it be due to elastomeric properties of the yarn, the weave of the yarns, or the orientation of the weave, has little bearing on the present invention or the practice thereof. Accordingly, as used herein and in the appended claims, it will be understood that the term stretchable relates to the desired end result and is not limited to any particular manner or technique of achieving this end result.

Returning again to consideradon of FIG. 2, arrangement 36 at an early stage of manufacture of the collar 20 ill be seen to additionally include two interlining plies 4S and the collar stiffening members or plastic stays As is generally understood, the function of interlining plies is principally to add body-to and shape and collar and consistent with this function, the interlining plies 46, 43 are suitably fabricated of material exhibiting a desirable stiifness or resistant to deformation, but not exhibitany marked or noticeable stretch in any direction, and

effectual stretch in the long direction of the collar 26.

In order of assembly, the interlining plies 46, 48 are placed at opposite ends of the top ply 40a of the arrangement 36, and the plastic stays 50 placed thereon at an appropriate oblique angle and secured thereto by a line of stitching 52. This sub-assemb=ly or arrangement of fabric ply 40a, inter-lining plies 46, 48 and plastic stays fit) is then placed on the main assembly or arrangement 35 and a run of stitching 54 is applied along the marginal edges of the fabric ply arrangement 36 to interconnect all of the fabric plies of the arrangement. The arrangement 36 is then turned inside-out, placing the fabric plies 46b, tlcon the outside of the collar 20. Following the turn of the collar 20, a row of top stitching 56 is applied along the opposite edges 34 and the long edge 34a therebetween for decorative purposes and also to obtain a tight and enhanced ap= pearance in the adjacent fold lines 57, 58 (see FIG. 7) created by turning of the fabric ply arrangement 36.

From the foregoing description, it will be appreciated that the interconnecting rows or lines of stitching 54, and to a lesser extent the line of stitching 22, could have an undesirable restricting effect on the expandability ofthe collar 20 if such stitching employed totally unstretchable thread. Accordingly, it will be'understood that in the practice of the present invention such thread is to be avoided, and preferably use should be made of Dacron thread or such synthetic fiber threads which are in wide commercial use. While Dacron is not gen erally known as a stretchable thread, as is for example a thread having an elastomeric core, it nevertheless has or exhibits suificient inherent lengthwise stretch for purposes of the present invention. In this regard, since the stretch of. the thread used for stitching as herein described, is derived along the entire length of the row or line of stitching, only a nominal stretch is required in the thread to complement the stretch of the collar 20 which is restricted to a lesser collar length along the medial collar area 2812. The use in the appended claims of the term expansible in re erence to interconnecting stitching is thus int-ended to distinguish from obviously inoperative totally unstretchable thread, but otherwise is not intended as a limitation or requirement of any particular thread in the practice of the present invention.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 8-10 and the showing therein of a preferred embodiment of a collar according to the present invention which is typically used of the collar.

appearance of the collar 20'.

for dress shirts and more formal garments and thus 7 employs a neckband to accurately locate the foldline The parts of this embodiment which are similar to parts of the previously describedembodiment will be designated with the same but primed reference numbers. Illustrated in'FIG. 8, is a dress shirt 26 and an expandable collar 20' attached, as by the line of stitching 60, to the neck opening M of the dress shirt 26. The folded body 28 of the collar 20' is similarly 43b and 4&0. Before turning, the fabric plies 40a'c' and interposed non-stretchable interlining plies 46, 48' each having an attached obliquely angled plastic stay 51?, as by the stitching 52', is interconnected by marginal stitching 54 (see FIG. After turning, decorative top stitching 56 is applied to the collar along the collar'opening edges 34' and the collar edge 34a therebetween. Attached to the collar '20 is a neckband '64- which receives the collar in a collar-receiving opening 66 provided along the'upp er edge of the neckband 64. At least two, but preferably three appropriately shaped fabric plies 68a, 68b and 68s are employed in the construction of the neckband 64,-each having a turnedin upper marginal edge, collectively designated 69, at

v V the collar opening 66 to provide neat fold lines '70, 72 alongthe connection of the neckbandf64 to the collar 20. The bulk'of the turned-in marginal edges 69 of V the neckband plies odd-c additionally accurately locates the collar told line130', and preserves this location dur-- ing wear of the shirt'26 "to promote an essential neat fining the neck opening 24- in the yoke or shoulder The marginal ledge de-" region of the shirt Z6 iS lCCBll/ fid within the opening a" '71 along the base of the neckband 64 and the collar 20$ andattached neckband V64- issectired to the shirt 26 g by the stitchingotl. g v

The construction o-f the fabric plies of both the collar 243' and attached neckband64 includes crossing weft;

, and warp yarns 42'. and 44",]the form-er yarnshaving an elastomeric core to renderfthesefabric pl-iesstretch able in the longdim'ension of the collar 20'. Inthe collar proper, this directional stretchof the'fabricplies' occurs only in the medial bodyv area 23b being restricted by the non-stretchable interlining plies 46 48' fronr occurring .inrthecollar areas 28a. On the other hand, the entire length of the neckband 641's efiectually stretchable; but being by and large covered by the folded I overhalf of thecollar 20; this haslittle consequence onthe appearance'of the collar 2W. "-1 1 From the foregoing, it will fthusbe; appreciated that "thecol-lar embodiments 20, 20' are? adapted in a unique manner to expand lengthwise without adverse eifect pn the neat appearance of the prominent colla r areas 28a, 28a; .That is, distortion manifested as rippling, wrinkling, or the like, which invariably occasions stretch 'ing, is avoided in these critical collar areas. which" by and large are the neatness standard of the collar. In the practice of the present invention, a wide variety of fabrics may be employed in the construction of an expandable collar 20, 20" such as herein described. Many V of thesefabrics are comprised substantially of synthetic fibers currently enjoying wide commercial acceptance particularly in so-called wash and wear shirts because oftheir resistance to shrinkage, and for this reason are.

particularly preferred in the practice of the present invention. A specific example is a Dacron polyestercotton-lycra blend fabric. .Only obviously inoperative fabrics which do not, and which can not be made to stretch in at least'the long direction of the collar are to,

be avoided.

A latitude of modification, change and substitution is intended in the foregoingdisclosure and in some instances sorne features of the invention will be employed without a corresponding use of other features. Accordingly, it is appropriate that the appended claims be construed broadly and in a manner consistent with the spirit and scope of the invention herein. a

What is claimed is: a

1. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar construct-ion comprising an interconnected superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable and non-stretchable fabric plies forming the body of said collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, the stretchable fabric plies of said arrangement extending throughout the entire collar body length and providing top and under collar plies and the non-stretchable plies being interposed between said topand under collar plies and extending from each end edge inwardly therefrom for only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective.

non-stretchable inserts, and means securing said inserts to said end portions to restrict collar expansion in said end portions of the body of the collar adjacent the collar opening while permitting collar expansion in the remaining c'ol-.

lar body portion therebetween.

2. An expandable.stitch-and-turn collar construct-ion I least two of the plies of said; arrangement forming the outer plies of said collar and extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end I edges and being stretchable in-at least the long dimension ofthe collar body, and at least two remaining pliesof said arrangement being'non-stretchable in the longdimension of the collar body and each extending from a-collarQ openingend edge inwardly therefrom for only an 'end portion of the collar body length and providing 'respective non-stretchable inserts, means securing said inserts tosaid end portions to restrict lengthwise collar expansionin said end portions of the colla'rbody adjacent said collar open- I ing while permitting lengthwise collar expansion in the medial Pertion f the r body therebetween.

3. An expandable stitch and-turn -collar construction comprising an interconnected superposed arrangement of coextensive fabric plies forming an elongated collar body having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at. least two of'the plies of said arrangement formingthe outer plies of said collar and extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening 'end edges, the construction of said outer plies including stretcha'ble-yarns orientated in the long direction ofthe collar body for rendering said outer plies stretchable in thelong dimensionof thecollar body, andatleast two remaining plies" of said arrangement being non-stretchable in the said inserts to said end portions to restrict lengthwise col: lar expansion in said end portions of the collar body a d jacent said collar'opening while permitting lengthwise;

portion of the collar body;

collar expansion'in the medial therebetween. ri 4. An expandable stitch-and-turn' collar construction comprising an interconnected superposed"arrangementof coextensive fabric plies forming an elongated collar body having opposite end edges defining a collar ope'ning'at least two of the plies of said' arrangement forming the H outer plies of said collar'and extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end edges, the construction of said outer plies including crossing weft and warp yarns orientated at an angle to the long dimension of the collar body for rendering said outer plies stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body, and at least two remaining plies of said arrangement being non-stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body and each extending from a collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective non-stretchable inserts, means securing said inserts to said end portions to restrict lengthwise collar expansion in said end portions of the collar body adjacent said collar opening while permitting lengthwise collar expansion in the medial portion of the collar body therebetween.

5. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outer plies of the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two nonstrctchable and separate interlining plies arranged in facing relation with only the opposite end portions of said outer plies and coextensive with and secured to said opposite end portions for adding body to the collar at said collar opening, and marginal expansible stitching along the opposite end edges of said outer and interlining plies and an edge therebetween for interconnecting said outer and interlining plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies being such as to render said outer plies stretchable lengthwise of the collar for expansion of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said non-stretchable interlining plie in the collar areas adjacent the collar opening and occurring only in the medial collar area therebetween.

6. An expandable'stitch-and-turn collar construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outer plies of the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two non-stretchable and separate interlining pliesarranged in facing relation with only the opposite end portions of said outer plies and coextensive with and secured to said opposite end portions for adding body to the collar at said collar opening, and marginal expansible stitching along theopposite end edges of said outer and interlining plies and an edge therebetween for interconnecting said outer and interlining plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies including stretchable yarns V orientated lengthwise of the collar to render said outer plies stretchable lengthwise of the collar for expa'nsion'of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said non-stretchable interlining plies in the collar areas adjacent'the collar opening and occurring only in the medial collar area therebetween.

7. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outer plies of the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two non-stretchable and separate interlining plies arranged in facing relation with only the opposite end portions of said outer plies and coextensive with and secured to opposite end portions for adding body to the collar at said collar opening, and marginal expansib-le stitching along the opposite end edges of said outer plies and ,an edge there/between for interconnecting said outer plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies including crossing weft and warp yarns orientated at an angle to the lengthwise direction of the collar to render said outer plies stretchable lengthwise of the collar for expansion of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said non-stretchable interlin ing plies in the collar areas adjacent the collar opening 8. An expandable stitch-and-turn collarand attached neckband construction comprising an interconnected superposedarrangement of coextensive stretchable and non-stretchable fabric plies forming the body of said collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neclcband, expansible stitching interconnecting confronting edges of said collar body and neckband, the stretchable fabric plies only of said collar body extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end edges and the non-stretchable plies thereof extending from each collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective non-stretchable inserts, means securing said inserts to said end portions, whereby collar expansion is restricted by said inserts in said end portions of the body of the collar adjacent the collar opening and permitted in the collar body portion therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

9. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar and attached neclcband construction comprising an interconnected superposed arrangement of coextensive fabric plies forming an elongated collar body having opposite end edges delining a collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neckband, expansible stitching interconnecting confronting edges of said collar body and said neciiband, at least two of said fabric plies of said collar body forming the outer plies thereof when said collar is turned and extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end edges, the construction of said outer plies being such that said outer plies are stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body, and at least two remaining plies of said collar body being non-stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body and each extending from a collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for, only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective non-stretchable inserts, means securingsaid inserts to said end portions, whereby collar expansion is restricted by said inserts in said end portions of the body of the collar adjacent the collar opening and permitted in the collar body portion therebetween and in the IlCCkbtlIld attached to said collar.

10. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar and attached I neck-band construction comprising an interconnected suthroughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end edges, the construction of said outer plies including stretchable yarns orientated in the'long' i i i I direction of the collar .body for rendering said outer plies stretchable in the "long dimensionof the collar body, and at least tworernaining plies of. said collar body being nonstretchable in the. long dimension of the collar body and each extending from a collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective non-stretchable inserts, means securing said inserts to said end portions, whereby collar expansion is restricted by said inserts in said end portions of the body of the collar adjacent the collar opening and permitted in the collar body portion therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

11 An expandable stitch-and-turn' collar and attached neckband construction comprising an interconnected superposed arrangement of coextensive fabric plies forming an elongated collar body having opposite end edges defining" a collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neckband, expansible stitching interconnecting confronting edges of said collar body and said neckband, at least two of said fabric plies of said collar body forming the outer plies thereof when said collar is turned and extending throughout the entire collar body length between said collar-opening end edges, the construction of said outer plies including crossing weft and warp yarns orientated at an angle to the long dimension of the collar body for rendering said outer plies stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body, and at least two remaining plies of said collar body being non-stretchable in the long dimension of the collar body and each extending from a collar-opening end edge inwardly therefrom for only an end portion of the collar body length and providing respective non-stretchable inserts, means securing said inserts to said end portions, whereby collar expansion is restricted by said inserts in said end portions of the body of the collar adjacent the collar opening and permitted in the collar body portion therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

12. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar and attached neclcband construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outer plies ot the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two non-stretchable and separate interlining plies arranged in facing relation with only the opposite end portions of said outer plies and coextensive with said opposite end portions for adding body to the collar at said collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neckband, expansible stitching interconnecting confronting edges of said collar body and said neckband, and marginal expansible stitching along the opposite end edges of the outer and interlining plies of said collar and the edge therebetween remote from the neckband for interconnecting said outer and interlining plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies being such as to render said outer plies stretchable lengthwise of the collar for expansion of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said interlining plies in the collar areas adjacent the collar opening and occurring only in the medial collar area therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

13. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar and attached neckband construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outer plies of the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two non-stretchable and separate interlining plies arranged in facing relation with only the op posite end portions of said fabric plies and coextensive with said opposite end portions for adding body .to the collar at said collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neckedges of said collar body and said neckband, and marginal expansible stitching along the opposite end edges of the outer and interlining plies of said collar and the edge therebetween remote from the neckband for interconnecting said outer and interlining plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies including stretchable yarns orientated lengthwise of the collar for expansion of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said interlining plies in the collar areas adjacent the collar opening and occurring only in the medial collar area therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

14. An expandable stitch-and-turn collar and attached neckband construction comprising at least two superposed coextensive fabric plies forming the outerplies of the collar and having opposite end edges defining a collar opening, at least two nonstretchable and separate interlining plies arranged in facing relation with only the opposite end portions of said fabric plies and coextensive with said opposite end portions for adding body to the collar at said collar opening, a superposed arrangement of coextensive stretchable fabric plies forming said neckband, expansible stitching interconnecting confronting edges of said collar body and said neckband, and

marginal expansible stitching along the opposite end edges of the outer and interlining plies of said collar and the edge therebetween remote from the neckband for interconnecting said outer and interlining plies and confining each interlining ply to the collar area adjacent said collar opening, the construction of said outer plies including crossing weft and warp yarns orientated at an angle to the lengthwise direction of the collar to render said outer plies stretchable lengthwise of the collar for expansion of the collar in this direction, said collar expansion being restricted by said interlining plies in the collar areas adjacent the collar opening and occurring only in the medial collar area therebetween and in the neckband attached to said collar.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. 

1. AN EXPANDABLE STITCH-AND-TURN COLLAR CONSTRUCTION COMPRISING AN INTERCONNECTED SUPERPOSED ARRANGEMENT OF COEXTENSIVE STRETCHABLE AND NON-STRETCHABLE FABRIC PLIES FORMING THE BODY OF SAID COLLAR AND HAVING OPPOSITE END EDGES DEFINING A COLLAR OPENING, THE STRETCHABLE FABRIC PLIES OF SAID ARRANGEMENT EXTENDING THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE COLLAR BODY LENGTH AND PROVIDING TOP AND UNDER COLLAR PLIES AND THE NON-STRETCHABLE PLIES BEING INTERPOSED BETWEEN SAID TOP AND UNDER COLLAR PLIES AND EXTENDING FROM EACH END EDGE INWARDLY THEREFROM FOR ONLY AN END PORTION OF THE COLLAR BODY LENGTH AND PROVIDING RESPECTIVE NON-STRETCHABLE INSERTS, AND MEANS SECURING SAID INSERTS TO SAID END PORTIONS TO RESTRICT COLLAR EXPANSION IN SAID END PORTIONS OF THE BODY OF THE COLLAR ADJACENT THE COLLAR OPENING WHILE PERMITTING COLLAR EXPANSION IN THE REMAINING COLLAR BODY PORTION THEREBETWEEN. 